BMW 320 Würth SW58 Sideways

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Würth livery #13 Driven by: Manfred Winkelhock

This is a one-off car, set up for wood track racing apart from tyres.
It has the original rear wheels and tyres on it.
What has been done for tuning, read below.

Chassis: Podded - has the new rigid Sideways 5 point pod. Chassis can also take any Pods
Motor: Flat-6 20,500rpm  200 g/cm torque 10.25 watt,  mounted a/winder with adaptors for 0.5mm and 1.0mm offset
Axle & Gears - 2.38mm (3/32nd)
Gearing: Crown 28t (GA1628-pl) - Pinion 11t brass
Has adjustable height front axle - requires optional M2.0 Hex screws, not supplied with car
Hubs front: Plastic
  16.5 x 8.2mm
Hubs rear: Alloy 16.5mm x 8.2mm

Accessories supplied with car: M2 allen key under box, adaptors for 0.5mm and 1.0mm offset of rear axle
SSD Upgradable: Yes, use SP15b

I did a really quick OOTB setup. 'Scuse the rough video clip didn't want to get too anal on time
and quality of car or video. It took me longer to make the video than it did to roughly tune the car LOL
Pod screws are about 1 turn off tight, the same as the body screws - I forgot to mention that in the video
As it is already doing 5.1 around my track, I would only be hunting about a 0.2 per lap improvement;
so it's reasonable in this quickly set up state - just noisy.
Not sure what the tyres are in the video, they could be an 11mm Ultragrip or a PT1172N22., as they come out
looking and performing about the same after I run them on my softening jig for a few hours.
I used the ones off my orange-bell sidewinder Moby Dick, which is my low powered "nimble" car I use on
short tracks in our racing group; as I couldn't get the hubs from my M1 inside the wheel arches
I have swapped them back out for the originals for sale.

The body on part - is still an unweighted car.

Further tuning would be step by step, something like this.

  • Soft washers on all screw load points
  • Glue and true some suitable tyres onto the rears
  • Tinker with the pod looseness, especially the side float screws
  • Check for "click points" - interferences between body and chassis
  • Shift to 1.0mm offset, to lower the back
  • Reduce front tyre diameter to drop the front, as the axle is already near the top of chassis adjustment
  • Maybe add those guide spacers, I haven't used any as yet
  • Coat the fronts, or shift to a zero grip tyre
  • Check body/interior for fully fixed and not flexing
  • Longer body screws to allow more float
  • Mess with gear mesh a little and shut up the noise
  • Perhaps glue the motor to the pod for extra stiffness
  • Tape the underside of the pod to chassis then loosen the pod screws another turn
  • Then start fiddling with weight